Hello Jackheads, how’s the painting going?
I just wanted to stop in to show you my secondary project, which is a pair of battle boxes for demos- you’ll notice the Repenter and most of the Templar in here, and the casters are metals; I’m still debating whether or not to do their plastic counterparts, but here’s a few quick shots. Now I must go to bed, I have a long day of demos ahead!
Hello Jackheads, how’s the painting going?
I’ve gotten into the habit of painting all flesh and faces first before everything else. I find that not only does this method remove some potential frustration later on in the process but it also confers a lot of personality on to the model. It might sound silly, but it actually helps me finish the model faster.
Anyway, I thought I’d share some faces of models I’ve been working on. I explored a good deal of new territory with these guys, from trolkin flesh to 5 o’ clock shadow. Hope you like them.
Lifted this from this weeks privateer insider… good stuff
“””To begin this blog, I need to borrow my favorite line from the movie Dogma: “Painting an army is the most exhausting activity one can engage in, next to soccer.”
I don’t think anyone who has attempted the feat would disagree with me here. It starts off easy enough and with the best intentions. You pore over the Force Book, carefully choosing your models by theme, gameplay, or a combination of both. You stroll into your LGS, list in hand, the fluttering in your gut much like the feeling you had on Christmas Eve as a kid. You stack up the boxes on the counter, pay, and merrily make your way home, barely able to hold back from tearing open your purchases and getting at the miniature goodness inside.
Heck, if you are like me, it’s only a matter of minutes before you are assembling everything you bought. The first few models go easy enough. You’ve picked out a color scheme and are excited to make this new army the best looking yet. You are going to take your time. You imagine the oohs and ahs and smile at the image of your immaculately painted warriors crushing all before you.
A few models and maybe a unit down, something happens. Maybe a new distraction shows up (for me, the worst distraction is the release of a new video game I’ve been looking forward to), or your work hits the busy season, or your wife complains that you don’t love her the way you love your silly little toys, but no matter what, the shine wears off. Now you curse yourself for always choosing the most difficult models to paint. You bemoan every last pouch, every last intricate piece of filigree, every backpack and rivet. Your paint table is no longer an escape but a prison, a never-ending line of impossibly detailed figures whose accusing stares haunt you like some twisted version of the Tell Tale Heart.
Somehow, you make it through, bit by bloody bit. So what is the point of my exceedingly long blog? That despite the grueling trial that is getting a fully painted Unbound army on the table, the end result is worth every drop of blood and sweat. Of course, I’m not just here to preach. I’m here to help.
There are two pieces of advice I’ve received about painting since I joined the crew at Privateer that I have never forgotten. The first was from studio director Ron Kruzie who told me, “I never paint my gaming models like a studio piece. One is for playing and one is for showing. The worst thing a person can do is mix those two things up.”
If this isn’t perfect than I don’t know what is.
I loved Ron for this. One of the top painters in the industry had just told me that it was okay to not be perfect and that not being perfect was perfect. Sure, I still love taking my time on centerpiece models or the few miniatures I paint with display only in mind, but I will never again lose sleep because I didn’t three-stage highlight every button, clasp, and belt on my grunts.
The second piece of advice came from a conversation I was having with studio painter extraordinaire Matt Dipietro, who said, “People like to say this or that technique is cheating, but there’s no such thing as cheating when painting models.”
Matt went on to say that every technique and trick in the book was completely valid in the fight to paint an army quickly and effectively. So, armed with this advice, here is a breakdown of how you, too, can get a great looking Unbound army on the table and keep your sanity intact!
Color Scheme: My 150 point Retribution force was painted in five weeks. The first 100 models were done for the first Impossible Dream Challenge, and the last 50 were done right when I got my hands on the Arcantrik Force Generator and creative director Ed Bourelle challenged me to a fully painted Unbound game (which you’ll see more of later this week). One of the biggest reasons I was able to accomplish this in the short time frame was I set out with a very clear and limited color palette. Only having ten paint pots on the table greatly improved my speed, as I wasn’t struggling to find the right color for this or that detail. Furthermore, I chose a scheme that I knew I could paint quickly using techniques like drybrushing and plenty of washes.
I love the smell of bronze in the morning!
Priming: Okay, so everyone knows the importance of priming. What most people don’t realize is that it is a perfect opportunity to basecoat your models as well, especially if there is a single color that will dominate your overall scheme. For my Retribution army, it was much more efficient to use a spray gun loaded with Arcane Blue than to actually paint it on. In essence, I primed my models twice. First, I primed with P3 Black, and then I primed with Arcane Blue using a spray gun available from any hobby or craft store. Another way to make priming work for you is by using the underpainting technique described by Matt DiPietro in NQ #34. Combined with washes, underpainting can net you a great-looking army in a fraction of the time, but only if you’ve taken the time to plan it out before you begin.
Underpainting’s undeniable outcome!
Drybrushing: Drybrushing gets a bad rap from some painters. True, it doesn’t create smooth layering like other techniques, but it’s hard to argue with its effectiveness and speed. Metals and stone are especially good candidates for drybrushing, but any high contrast surface area can benefit from a good and speedy drybrush.
Two battle engines, 6 hours. Brought to you by drybrushing!
Washes/Glazes: Mixed from inks and paints, washes provide fast and great-looking shading with one simple application. Glazes are much the same as washes, but instead of just being used for shading, glazing can be used to create cool highlighting effects by subtly altering the basecoat just like a color lens on a picture. Want a fiery orange? Glaze red ink over a yellow basecoat. Because it functions similar to a wash, glazing will create natural highlights at the same time.
Pizza and Paint: Pizza is perhaps one of the greatest currencies known to man. The prospect of free pizza is a siren’s call few can resist, no matter the work involved to get it. So hold a painting night with some friends and let them know there will be pizza. Coupled with a promise to help them on their next pizza project, you should have no problem getting some extra hands to help.
So there you have it. My tips and tricks for getting a good-looking army on the tabletop without losing your mind or sacrificing those personal relationships we all rely on. And because I started with a movie quote, I felt it only proper to end with one.
“Paint Long and Prosper!””””
Hopefully people are still checking the site. I’ll apologize for dropping the ball last month with the challenge, but being one of the only participants to finish on time the first month, I don’t feel too bad about it heh. Not to say that I haven’t been involved with my army, I’ve just been much less focused lately. I could make excuses, but they will become apparent to everyone soon enough.
Anyway, I have some pictures! I added battle damage as well as scenic bases for everything from the first month. Behold!
Also, here’s something else I’ve been working on. It’s a secret to everybody…
Hey everybody- I’ve been getting reports that, aside from zexsudel, nobody (including me) has quite finished with their armies.
This is a problem! We suck, you guys!
So, I’ve decided to extend the 35 point lists out into the end of May. For some of us, that’ll just mean finishing one or two models, and for others, that’ll mean doing EVERYTHING this month- team Cryx, I’m looking at you guys!
So, for the end of THIS month, I’m looking for your 35 point armies! Get to it!
You know I have come to the realization that I don’t particularly enjoy painting. As such I am more concerned about just finishing the army than making it perfectly pretty. At a distance the group all looks sharp though. Just don’t turn them on their sides and looks for their “under parts” :p
Anyways, I have finished my 35 point list with one caveat. I dropped the second Arcanist. Why? Well going into the 50 point list I have decided to drop the Tier list in order to pick up some Dawngaurd Sentinels, which are amazing. And since I I lose the free Arcanist that was included in the list I had posted I did not paint him for this force, thought he would be allowed.
The House Shyeel Articer and the Housegaurd Heavy Rifle team are both now out which gives me some new options. I have a few days think about my list though. Until then bask in my awesome
When I first posted I was joining this shindig I mentioned I’d post a group shot of the work I had finished up to that point. Well I forgot. So without further delay I will show you the group shot I have currently. I am two models short of my 35 point list. However I think I may need to do back and retro-fit my first heavy myrmidon so it’s magnets are better so perhaps it will stay together during a game. Currently the Phoenix is too weak to wield his own sword for very long.
I’ve been waiting for weeks for a sunny day without lots of wind to seal my miniatures. This day is apparently a fable since it snowed tonight and it is almost May…